Written By: Longjam Dineshwori | Updated : April 19, 2021 9:51 AM IST
If you have dry skin, AHA is your best bet.
Our skin naturally exfoliates dead cells daily, but this shedding process tends to slow down or stop altogether due to aging and lack of sun protection. This can lead to dull, dry, or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; bumps, wrinkles, loss of firmness, and uneven skin tone. Thus, exfoliation is an essential part of a skincare routine. Not just exfoliating helps get rid of dead skin, but also facilitates new cell growth, clean pores as well as promote blood flow and collagen production. This will make your skin look younger, healthier, and radiant. Gone are the days of using harsh, gritty scrubs to get rid of dead skin cells, AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are the new generation of exfoliants. Both AHAs and BHAs work by breaking down the glue that holds the skin cells together, which in turn improves the skin's natural shedding process. But which one you should be using for your skin type? This article will the difference between these two acids, and which one is best for you.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), often referred to as fruit acids, are derived from sugar cane, milk, almonds, or fruit. You will find different types of AHAs in skincare products. Glycolic acid derived from sugarcane is the most common AHA. Other common AHAs include -
AHAs are water-soluble acids that can penetrate only the top layer of skin, called epidermis. Generally, AHAs are recommended for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, because of their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin. These acids can help stimulate collage production, and reduce the visible signs of sun damage, including crepe-y skin and wrinkles.
BHAs are a type of acid found in willow tree bark, wintergreen leaves or sweet birch bark. While AHAs are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble. As BHAs can penetrate deeper into the skin, these acids are best for acne-prone skin and those with deeper skin concerns. Most often BHAs are preferred for normal to oily skin that's prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. The popular anti-acne ingredient, Salicylic Acid, is the strongest BHA and is used in many OTC acne products. The other main BHA exfoliants used in skincare products are Betaine salicylate (derived from sugar beets) and Salix alba or willow bark extract.
BHAs also have skin-calming properties which make them suitable for sensitive skin types, including those prone to redness or rosacea and bumpy skin disposed to milia. While AHAs don't have an effect on sebum, BHAs can slow down sebum production, which helps in clearing and preventing acne, blackheads and clogged pores.
If you have acne or cystic acne or oily skin, experts suggest choosing BHA. Salicylic acid is proven to be more effective than benzoyl peroxide in reducing the number and severity of acne lesions. If you have dry skin or want to exfoliate just the top layer of your skin, AHA is your best bet. If you suffer from hyperpigmentation and/or want to improve fine wrinkles, an AHA may be more beneficial. People with sensitive skin are advised to avoid both these acids, as they can be irritating to the skin. Some experts suggest using both of these ingredients together for greater benefits if your skin can tolerate the combo and without overdoing it. You can use AHA for a week, then switch to BHA the next week. Alternatively, you can apply one in the morning and the other one at night. Whether you are using AHA or BHA, do not forget to use sunscreen after exfoliating since your skin will be photosensitive.
Caution: It is best to consult a dermatologist, who can help assess your skin type and suggests a personalised skin care routine.
