A Doctor Explains: How Does The Skin Benefit From Using Retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is a popular ingredient in skincare for reducing acne and improving skin texture and tone. Retinols are the milder versions of retinoids.

You must have heard of the word 'retinol' when talking about skincare products. Retinol has gained popularity in recent years, and is now considered to be an essential element of skincare. It is understood to be a form of vitamin A, an ingredient that is added to skin creams, lotions, serums, etc., for its anti-ageing and acne-clearing properties. According to Dr Rinky Kapoor, consultant dermatologist, cosmetic dermatologist and dermato-surgeon at The Esthetic Clinics, retinol is basically celebrated for stimulating collagen production, reducing wrinkles and treating acne.

"Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is a popular ingredient in skincare for reducing acne and improving skin texture and tone. Retinols are the milder versions of retinoids, and the active molecules that influence skin structure formation in them is the retinoic acid," the doctor explained.

What Is It Used For?

Dr Kapoor said retinol is used for the following:

• Fine lines and wrinkles on the skin
• To reduce the effects of photo-ageing such as sun damage
• To improve skin texture
• To treat melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation
• To control acne and reduce scarring
• To prevent skin dryness

How does retinol work?

The expert explained that unlike most anti-ageing treatments that only remove the dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, retinol reaches deep in the skin under the epidermis layer. "It enhances the activity of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes and langerhans cells under the skin," she stated.

1. Retinol's interaction with keratinocytes encourages their growth, which helps in their proliferation leading to strengthened epidermal protective barrier and reducing water loss. It thickens the deeper layer of the skin, reducing the fine lines and wrinkles and reflecting a youthful and glowing skin. This activity also helps to control acne.
2. Fibroblast and keratinocyte interaction protects the collagen fibres from breaking down, and slows down action of enzymes that degrade the skin's structure improving cell turnover.
3. Retinol molecules aid in remodelling of skin fibres and stimulate formation of new blood vessels on the dermis which results in tighter and firmer skin.
4. In the middle layer of the skin, retinol 'neutralises free radicals', which further aids in collagen and elastin production.

Who can use retinol?

Finally, the doctor said that retinol is suitable for most skin types, but the strength and frequency of use of retinol might vary, depending on the skin type. "For dry skin, start with lower concentration and increase gradually to prevent dryness or irritation. People with oily skin should start with lightweight formation in conjunction with oil-free products. For combination skin, use retinol selectively; people with sensitive skin should be more cautious and start with very low concentrations," Dr Kapoor advised, adding that if you have skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, or severe acne, you must talk to your dermatologist before introducing retinol to your routine.